The use of fuse on the speaker

What you need to do

The hardware like the fuse mentioned here can be easily obtained from Radio Shack or other sources of electronic components. You need to find the AGC insurance tube holder, insurance tube and need to spend some labor. A good AGC fuse holder should be of the blocking type. Its two "U" shaped metal cards and a fuse that can be used to hold it. Another relatively poor AGC safety tube holder is an in-line holder with pigtail-like wires. This type of retainer is generally used as an after-sale electronic component on the car, which you may find at the auto parts supplier. The third option is the type of panel-type holder with a removable fixing cap on the back, which can be seen on many electronic devices. They can be placed on most socket panels, and all connections are made internally. Its current capacity capability is completely without problems. Any store that can provide a guitar amplifier will have this kind of holder.

AGC insurance tubes are often sold together in multiple packages, so naturally you are "forced" to buy spare parts!

Install the fuse holder

Install the fuse holder in a convenient place. You can install the holder in the recess of the input panel on the back of the speaker, behind the front grid, inside the speaker cabinet, or at the output of the amplifier. Remember, if a fuse is burnt, you must be able to easily replace it, and sometimes you need to move quickly (such as during a show)!

Whether the wire is connected to the speaker or directly to the speaker, the fuse holder must be welded in sequence. It does not matter whether the lead is positive or negative. Also, the fuse and its holder have no polarity. If you cannot use soldering, then you should choose an in-line fixator with wire connection screws. Of course, this is not the best method.

What insurance is protecting

The best way to protect a speaker with an internal crossover is to place the fuse in front of the crossover. The current intensity of the fuse should be accumulated according to the value of each speaker. This requires turning on the speakers and constructing the wires that enter each speaker. If you choose to place the fuse holder on the outside of the box, then you may need to extend the horn wire. The wire can be obtained from a small hole in the box or through the input panel to the position where you want to place the fuse holder. You must close this small hole to avoid air flow and leakage around the wire. In this case, you'd better be able to use a panel-type holder, so that you can avoid the problem of sealing the box and make the appearance of the speaker more beautiful. Usually, a fibrous washer is used to close the small hole.

Of course, you can also use a signal insurance for a multi-channel speaker, so that you can avoid the work of installing insurance for each speaker, however, such protection will not be so accurate. For multi-layer amplification systems, you must install a fuse for each speaker.

The choice of insurance

The only question left now is what type and how much fuse rating is selected. If you are installing a fuse for the entire system, then you should use a fast current fuse. If a fuse is installed for a single speaker, then a fast current fuse should be selected for the tweeter (compression) driver, and a slow current fuse should be selected for the cone speaker. This is because the cone horn has a certain tolerance for transient excessive current than the tweeter.

You have to calculate and determine the energy ratio. RMS will give more protection, but may also be burned very easily. If the audio content is not fully bassed, then you can safely use the programmed energy ratio, which is generally twice the RMS ratio.

You can use the following formula to calculate the rated insurance value:

Amps = square root (watts / Ohms) (power / impedance square root)

For example: If the power of a speaker (or a speaker) is 300 watts (RMS or long-term power), the nominal impedance is 8 ohms. Then

Amps = square root (300/8)

Amps = square root (37.5)

Amps = 6.1

The rated insurance value should be 6 amps. Once the value exceeds 3 amperes, it will be difficult for you to find a fuse that changes in units of 1/4 ampere, so you should use the fuse closest to this value: using a fuse that exceeds this value is relatively less Insurance, and the use of insurance tubes that are lower than this value is more conservative. If you want to add insurance to the entire system, choose the RMS ratio of the speakers from the beginning. When you find that your fuse will be easily burned and you can be sure that you are not overdriving your system, you can switch to a fuse that is 1/2 amp higher.

If you have two speakers connected in parallel, such as two subwoofers, and you want to use the same fuse for both of them, then you must double the rated insurance value calculated from a single speaker. If two speakers are connected in series, then the rated insurance value calculated from a single speaker is sufficient.

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