Novice for mad snake mouse fretting experience

WARNING: Newbie Tutorials/Experience

The old bird will not have to spend time here


Serving old mad snake is a mirror version of the 13-year college entrance examination

Unconsciously over 3 years later

LZ also upgraded to a senior graduating dog

And this old guy has not been able to make it

Left click on the tight drag will break, as shown below

(No bad screenshots, this was later simulated)

This situation, just enter the PS pull box will know how painful

There is a saying on the Internet that the plastic contacts on the buttons of the mouse shell are a little worn out.

At first, the pad really improved slightly

But it didn’t take long for the disease to recur, and the root cause was still micro-motion.


Already new to the Pennefather V28


However, I still like the roller scroll feeling

(In fact, it is reluctant to throw)

趁 This time home, the richest family bought tools to open!

The main thing is, of course, micro-motion

(I don't elaborate on the quality of the various micro motions. There are online materials, and I also changed for the first time. I haven't studied this yet.)

Other electric iron, tin wire must

Rosin, sniffers are also best to buy it together, are not expensive and practical

Directly on the ground ready to start

D2FC-F-7N(20M)(OF)

D2FC-FL-NH

This time I bought the above two micro-motions

Opened up

Crazy snake is still very good demolition

Remove the tail foot and unscrew the screw on the line

Left-click the "old casualty" to thicken it or not use it

The original lamp factory is equipped with the most common 7N, life is too slag

Original solder joints are really pleasing

Fortunately, micro soldering is not much, it should not be difficult to take

It's almost time to work

The process of taking the micro motion here has not been taken

Still relatively smooth

Each point about two or three times

You don’t have to take it directly

In addition to the two fretting mentioned above

The boss also sent two small green points

Plug in one by one and try it on the shell.

After the test is finished, it will be directly on the tin.

(This solder joint is too lean and I couldn't help but open it up and fill it up again.)

The original road is loaded back

everything is normal

It can be another N years


to sum up:

Problems such as double-clicking, combo, and disconnection (refer to the above situation) occur in the mouse. First of all, consider the micro-movement contact of the mat, which is almost no cost compared to micro-motion.

If the pad is still useless, the old mouse does not want to throw, or simply want to experience the different touch of different fretting, then boldly change it, it is not so difficult

On the rosin, tin absorption device these auxiliary tools, it is recommended to buy along the time to buy micro-move, LZ buy tin absorber 8.5, rosin 2.5, by the way can also scrape together to the package, very affordable

With respect to the soldering iron craftsmanship, the three large metal dots should be of little concern to the normal person (unlike the LZ changing the wireless routing antenna to make a good route to the soldering residue). It is said that the soldering iron heats the soldering time is 3-5s, can not be too long, otherwise it may burn pad or fretting

When welding micro-movement, it should be compacted. After all, the micro-moving contact is so small that it is sensitive to the height.

Before demolding the mouse, it is best to go to the Internet to see the structure inside it, especially the buckle, wiring or something, do not get into the last violent dismantling equipment does not go back to bad


If you don’t want to do it yourself, it’s okay to take a fret at a computer repair shop.

Local tyrants please feel free to hurry up and buy new ones and buy new ones. Pull the GDP and make more contribution to the early entry into the aggression.


END

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